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Fiesta-Si.com • View topic - Grrrrr, help please people (Timing Update 21/04)
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 1:18 pm 
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My mates did the exact same, lack of power, topping out at around 80mph, and revs being poor..

We changed everything we could think of, then someone else had a look and stuck some different plugs and leads on and it worked...... we were confused also.

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I might try the old leads then, I still have those.

Just recorded and uploaded a short video of the engine running and sounds alright which adds to confusion lol



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Can't get the video to work dude...

Can I just go back to basics. My Si once felt very slow. It revved fine, and the engine has always been smooth, but the thing just lacked any feeling of torque whatsoever. It'd rev ok, but wouldn't go far for what it was revving at. Is this like yours?

The solution I found to be an air leak in a small L shaped pipe under the coil pack. It had collapsed and left a hole in it. This made the engine think it was getting more air than it was and therefore it overfuelled to try and compensate. But the air wasn't in the engine for it to burn.

When this was fixed, all became good once again. So try for an air leak before you go buying stuff as one of your things to cross off the list of possible problem areas.

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Ahh, got it to work.

Can't hear much though over the exhaust. Try the above though. Possible air leak.

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have you checked the timing? and try swapping TPS

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 5:16 pm 
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Took the crossover off and butterfly moves fine, makes the noise same position on the throttle but nothing in the way or sticking etc.

Wanted to get another garage to check the timing but they wanted £42 to look at it and more on top if they needed to adjust it so trying all the free things first lol

Will look into TPS


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 5:56 pm 
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u got a haynes manual mate.. its really easy to check if youve got one


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:00 pm 
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I have mate yeah, will check it out :)

Been reading it and suggests vaccuum leak at inlet manifold (dunno how to check that tbh), spark plug gaps (checked), Engine management system fault (could be anything lol). Those are the hesitant on acceleration faults anyway. "lack of power" suggests timing, fuel filter and stuff.

I have power though albeit low-end, so hopefully nothing too serious as what some of that suggests. Definitely going to get timing checked too when i find someone cheaper.

Cheers guys for suggestions so far though, much appreciated :)


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 Post subject: Help
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:02 pm 
As someone asked earlier have you checked your cam timing ? if not you have to set it perfectly it will run wrongly so firstly set the timing properly. You may have to buy a Zetec timing kit, but it needs to be done correctly. Secondly, check ALL the pipework to the cylinders to try and remove air being sucked in from an outside source and thus giving the ECU a false readings. Thirdly, does the engine idle ok or does it die ? Fourth, don't buy anything else for the engine as it is something very very simple and NOT necessarily something that needs replacing. I bet you have spent a fortune on bits and it is still the same haven't you ? There is nothing wrong with the ignition system as you are getting a spark nor the fuel system as you are getting the engine runs and as you say pulls in part throttle load. It therefor is too much air or not enough fuel and it will be a simple fix. If you rev the engine and slowly put the pedal to full throttle does the engine goto full fevs or does it level out ?
It may be the fuel pressure regulator but I am fairly sure you have not set the cam timing up properly because you said it hasn't run right since you changed the belt. TDC is found by taking the drivers wheel off, the cover panel from the crank pulley (if is still has one) and the notch should line up with the angled rib on the sump. Take the cam cover off the top of the engine and you have to slide a flat bar in the end of the cams, if it wont it maybe that you have to turn the crank another full turn or that they are incorrectly set. Set this up first as it is the cheapest option then see what happens. One other thing you have to slacken the torx bolts on the cam sprockets otherwise you CANNOT set the cam timing.


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Hiya, so far I've only bought a Cat which cost me £25 lol.

I had the cambelt done recently by a garage and the belt was slack, was still running fine slack but as soon as it was tightened up it's caused problems. I had to play up lots to get them to look at the slack belt anyway, they were sure it was correct even though it was slapping the top cover and was twistable between the cam pulleys at it's slackest point.

Engine idles fine, sounds fine too, just doesn't respond when going more than half way on the throttle pedal and makes a silly roar.

I haven't tried revving it when parked but in lower gears I can get it up to around 5k before upchanging (I don't need to go any further really) but in 5th gear on the motorway it does get stuck around 4-4.5k rpm around 80. 2nd gear will get to 40mph at 5k, never really checked third but 4th tops out at 60-65mph whereas before it used to get to 85 at 5.5k.

I do want to check the timing myself exactly how you described but it means spending out on a rocker cover gasket and then possibly again after that if it needs to go to a garage

Cheers.


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 Post subject: Timing
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:31 pm 
You don't need to buy a new gasket, you can use the old one, My advice is that you goto your local motor factors, buy a manual, buy a cam timing kit and try it yourself. It is easy if you follow it step by step. The cambelt tension is self setting. There should be a spring that pulls the tensioner into place, if it isn't there then it is guess work. The garage may have just tightened the tensioner manually and not with the spring as it may have broken and fallen off and may not checked the timing either.


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 Post subject: Timing
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:32 pm 
Shame you are so far away as i would have set it all up for you FREE


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 Post subject: Noise
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:35 pm 
The noise you are getting could be the fact that your valves are closing a little early or opening a little early causing ari to be pushed back up your inlet manifold


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I know the tensioner doesn't have a spring with it. Will take it apart tomorrow and see how far out it is.

Dunno if you've seen this vid but kinda explains what the noise is :)


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 Post subject: Timing
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:57 pm 
The best way to work is do the cheapest things first and work from there. If there is not a spring, go and get one from your ford dealer and fit it. It may be worthwhile considering fitting a complete cam belt kit including a new tensioner and idlers.


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lol it's just had a complete new kit put on about 2 months ago.


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