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Fiesta-Si.com • View topic - 29/07/2013 the end of the line....
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samwatson
PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:05 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 1:04 pm 
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Check fiestaguides for the servo conversion, all info is there

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samwatson
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:10 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:17 pm 
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Why do you want to use the bias valve off an xr2i?

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samwatson
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fitted:
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now i have currently mock fitted the xr2i rear brake bias but it seems guite a big bulky set up so will do some nwe pipework in the morning and fit the mondeo rear bias set up in line though not tight next to master cylinder but on inner wing.

set up;

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what you recon less mess?

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samwatson
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:45 pm 
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right so i finnished the brakes off this morning and bled them once. and fitted the mondeo brake bias in line too along with the holder. now i began to do the water pump as the whole system looses all its water in just 30 seconds the pump is really really mullered! anyhow went to undo the bottom pully which turned out i didn't have a hex 18mm impact so had to go get buy a set of impact sockets. then got back used the electric impact gun (seemed a bit week today! struggled loads) then the gun burnt the bushes out so thats dead so got to go to the tool shop tomorow and go from there!

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elPaulio
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Man up, get an 18mm ring spanner, take off the starter and get a small cold chisel to hold the flywheel and undo the bottom pulley bolt. Simples!

You southerners are a bit soft :lolz:

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elPaulio
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:18 pm 
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Flywheel can take it, its how the Haynes book of lies suggests removing the bolt. Or you could put the spanner on and crank the engine! Wouldn't do that myself though ;)
As fort the peg and spring, it should be on the zetec if the can belt has been changed. Don't know about 1600 cvh but I would think it should be there in any engine.

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samwatson
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Chris
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:30 pm 
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If the Crank pulley is anything like a ZS it needs to be fucking hefty tight or it'll spin and kill your engine (speaking from experience) and it takes one hell of an impact gun to get it off :lol:

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samwatson
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Yep! Hence why I will always take it to a garage for anything cambelt/crank bolt related fixes.

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brit-fez
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:10 am 
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 11:30 am 
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As said, wedge a screwdriver or something in the flywheel. I've always done it like that.

And yeah should be a peg and spring, comes as standard in the cambelt kits.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:58 pm 
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right so i got the pully off. changed the water pump and all that put it back together and went to start it.... and just was a clicking. so i thought great that the new starter motor i'd been having trouble with! so whipped it off put a old one on i knew defo worked.... same againg just clicking notturning over..... so i then concluded it needs the battery charging so its now on charge and thats that..... typical wanted to see if it worked ok! :banghead:

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Got a multi-meter to test the battery?

Also just a tip, take the coil pack plug off when you first start it and let it turn over a few times, that way just in case you've not timed it up properly or the tensioner bolt isn't tight, it won't ruin the valved and head if the belt slips. The amount of times I've seen people change belts and fire it straight up and something not be quite right and ruin the engine.. not good.

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Chris
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:39 pm 
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Turn it over by hand first would be even better :D

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elPaulio
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Yeah a couple of turns by hand then recheck its still timed is what I do. Normally do that twice just to be doubly sure!!

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