not so easy when you dont know why its doing it you see

Thats why you should have gotten on top of it from the start and changed each component linked to it until it stopped. But that gasket didnt help, and also now you have cams that wont help either. But you never know, may be alright with this new iscv

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i changed all relevent sensors and that so called dodgy gasket was changed immediately...

i tried 3 seperate iscv's

You've tried three ISCV's and you think a new one will work? I know theres a chance but all three of them being dodgy??

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apperently so, after a few years the element breaks down and becomes high resistance, making it react slower, meaning the valve doesnt open/shut quick enough causing the bad idle, only way around it is to replace it with a brand new item

lets be honest the sensors on the zetec engine are its biggest downfall, the engines themselves rarely go wrong, it is the same case with maf sensors, and lambda's once they go theyre gone, and chances are all the ones out there are now ruined due to the age of the engines

if this doesnt sort it id blame the maf, but they are over £100 new... (150 odd i think?)

Perhaps it's the wiring or the plug that's faulty if 3 haven't worked. There isn't much to them to go wrong in all fairness, literally a diaphragm and a spring iirc from last time I looked at mine. I'd get a continuity test done on the wires and plug ect to see if there are any breaks, then start measuring resistance and compare it to what it should be.

Have you tried another maf at all?

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literally tried everything mate, everything!

sensors air leaks pipes, gaskets breather system inlet, injectors, ecu, maf, plugs, leads coil pack the LOT


right little bastard


after several people over the years all pointed at the iscv (maf time to time) each told me that swapping for another one is pointless at times as like i said they all break down, most have by now, seems my car makes them seem worse than others, end of the day a new item will prove once and for all really


diaphram and the seals aint the issue, its the coil inside the solenoid that breaks down

fi this doesnt sort it, tbh thats it lol, i want to turbo or carb/tb it in the future each of these routes will render the current breather/idle sensors irrelevant so it can wait till then, ive suffered it this long

going to try out the airbox route

since just buying one seems a good idea to give it ago, some say it kills performance (going from having a cone) and some same the less heat soak simply makes the engine better

will very likely be drilling the bottom of the box anyway, will see


anyway heres what a quick search got me, 3 competitors:








decisions then...


on the flip side whos for fuck even getting the airbox on and stay conical filter?

but if it is going in im not even going to bother with a paper standard filter, be no point...

Doesn't really matter what filter you use on a standard box, you won't see it lol.

Sometimes those green filters are cheaper and can have better air flow than others, that may be due to how thin they are perhaps.
I personally don't like pipercross filters. The last time I saw an induction kit from them the air filter may as well have been made with a sieve because it was that thin and that shit. But it could have just been that type of kit which is like that.
At the end of the day, you simply cannot go wrong with a K&N filter, they are probably one of the most reputable brands in the world, so that's what I would go for

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When you took me out in it it didnt seem that lumpy

Have you plugged a computer into it?

Perhaps its the engine itself, and not pipes or sensors? Combustion chamber maybe?

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Suzuki Ignis Sport - ITG Maxogen - Japspeed 4-1 - Decat - 2" custom single box Scorpion exhaust 3" tip - Magnecor leads - Air con Removed - Apex 35mm springs - OMP Strut brace - Whiteline rear arb - EBC Greenstuff front pads - MTEC grooved/drilled discs - Team Dynamics Pro rally 15X6J ET28 - Toyo tyres - Rallyflapz - Black lamps - Smoked repeaters - Sparco pedals - Stripped 40kgs rear interior
125.4BHP 126.6LBFT

He's right though.. Your not going to see a panel filter?

and he said SOMETIMES the green filters are cheaper

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well they ant cheaper in this case are they?


looks are completely out of the point lol, i want to know which is the best, not looks best... or id keep my conical

Nah didn't click the links, was on my phone so couldn't be bothered lol.

If you want to know whats best, then search the forums to see what people think. I'm sure someone has done a test on panel filters before, on a RR too. Might have been a few years ago though, i'll see if i can find the thread later at some point too. I do remember reading up on it though. Probably over on ft.

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I doubt you'll notice any difference between any of them anyway

Perhaps you have actually fixed the lumpy idle but cant tell coz the lumpy idle from the cams are masking it

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Suzuki Ignis Sport - ITG Maxogen - Japspeed 4-1 - Decat - 2" custom single box Scorpion exhaust 3" tip - Magnecor leads - Air con Removed - Apex 35mm springs - OMP Strut brace - Whiteline rear arb - EBC Greenstuff front pads - MTEC grooved/drilled discs - Team Dynamics Pro rally 15X6J ET28 - Toyo tyres - Rallyflapz - Black lamps - Smoked repeaters - Sparco pedals - Stripped 40kgs rear interior
125.4BHP 126.6LBFT

If the rev counter is bouncing them you have a problem, mine used to be pretty much still and the car would be grumbling away with cams.

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the cams wont cause lumpiness as theyre only phase 1 cams, pauls car has ph2 or 3 cams and idles smooth

yea i have a problem... we know that

Was more talking to dan with that bit..

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eh?


guys stop digging into this lol, im on top of the situation, ive not just sat on my arse for 3 years leaving it be,, ive done more than i thought possible to rectify it, only now ive found a cheap enough iscv new for it

soon as it comes we will all know if it was the fault, if not then i simply dont care, it wont kill me to leave it be