yea should do valves are mostly made of stainless steel, but yet again some stainless steels aint magnetic so its a tough one to call

doesnt matter much, if you see loads of it in there the valves knackered and the head will need to come off regardless


its unlikely the cams are damaged, you cant really hit a valve or the stem into the hole towards the cams as the piston wont reach into the hole where the stem goes through


come now chris you know you'd never see 151bhp from a puma engine, you'd be going backwards and paying more for it

I know I wouldn't but it'd just be a lump put in and sorted and reliable :laugh:

So there will be metal in there? So what am I checking for to see if the pistons are damaged? Cracks on the top or what? Can you give me the dummy's guide for what to look for as I know how to check and what to take out and how to see all the pistons but not sure on what i'm actually looking for.

So if there are metal filings all on the pistons thats the valves that are fubared? Which is likely anyways?

I am hoping the cams are alright! They most likely are but my mate couldn't say 100% that they would be. What am I looking for on them to find out if there ok or knackered? Obvi if there cracked of snapped i'm fucked but if there badly scratched on the lobes? or scratched at all is that bad or what?

thanks for help so farrr.

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I thought I had bad times with my car! Just in time for Christmas as well.

You need torque wrenches! Even when changing my clutch and flywheel I ensured I had 2 torque wrenches (2 different ranges) and use one when doing anything on my engine.

Hopefully your cams are good.

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Rest in peace Ben "Jam" Elvin. Gone but never forgotten.

this should clear things up

OH just to add, you wont be able to see a hairline crack through the plug hole, you may see warping or sagging of the piston crown, but will be hard if its covered in coke, which is likely (burnt petrol thats remained)

i very much doubt its damaged the cams, but none the less you can check by seing obviously if any have snapped, that the lobes dont have bad scoring, or miss formed lobes and no nasty heat patches on them, use your finger and run over the lobes to feel that theyre still smooth

Cool, thanks i'll read that again in the morning, I know some of it already but will take in what I need and go out there.

Do I really want to be turning the engine over? Just don't want to do more damage, if its slipped does it mean its knocked out the timing?

I will do what I can to the best of my knowledge and let my mate take over from there I think

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the se engine has a floating crank which means that there is no keyway in the crankpulley and the only thing that stops the pulley from turning totally free is the crankbolt holding it tight. if the crankbold wasnt even finger tight when you tried it then its possible that you could crank the engine over but the cams wouldn't move.

so no i would really try to avoid turning the engine. damage will have been done when it went bang.

you mean your mate has a frp mapped ecu with that engine?

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To rebuild?

if the damage was done when it went bang, turning the engine over wont do shit now, specially as you said you were revving it some when it went pop

if the pistons are damaged i cant see you keeping that lump anyway as its more cost effective to replace the engine rather than each piston etc



yes if the belt slipped your timing be out, the crank would be ahead of the cams

true it might not do more damage but its not nice to hear the noise of a poorly engine.

a long time ago didnt you say you were going to puma it?

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To rebuild?

Nah I said I didn't want to puma it as it would cost roughly the same and I could get more power out of the 1.6 for the same money, even though i've spent a fortune now on fixing it

I will be investigating it soon.

My friend has a puma lump in his garage, with a TAPE ECU, not got the FRP map on it but its the one that comes out the factory with the fuelling overrun for pops, its also the only one that can have the FRP map put on it. Don't really want to go puma if I can help it

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Riggggght.

Cams look fine. Pistons are all there, tapped them all and there all sounding the same.

Didn't need to put it to TDC and the screwdriver reached them all, tbh it felt like they were all in about the same place.. had a look and in the tiny gap It all looked pretty smooth. But time will tell where the damage is, Wednesday my mate comes over for the proper strip down.

I broke my god damn fuel rail bit again though which is annoying!! So need a new fuel rail for one little bastard bit of plastic

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Hope its not too fucked mate

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Daily isn't so Special. And it makes me sad.
Need space and time and I'll crack on with Jams si!

Catch me on Facebook as I'm rarely on here.

so you couldnt see any debris i take it? which is good

but on the flip side things may be harder to find why its failing to start

before you strip it do a compression test on it, even if its just the oil and starting way like i said

Ok I'll ask my friend to bring a tester along.

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hope it goes well for you mate. not a good time fo that to happen either!

jony where did you get that 151bhp figure from?

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Suzuki Ignis Sport - ITG Maxogen - Japspeed 4-1 - Decat - 2" custom single box Scorpion exhaust 3" tip - Magnecor leads - Air con Removed - Apex 35mm springs - OMP Strut brace - Whiteline rear arb - EBC Greenstuff front pads - MTEC grooved/drilled discs - Team Dynamics Pro rally 15X6J ET28 - Toyo tyres - Rallyflapz - Black lamps - Smoked repeaters - Sparco pedals - Stripped 40kgs rear interior
125.4BHP 126.6LBFT

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Ta.

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haha there

appalling torque though, silly jap engine ( JOKE!!!! you haters yet so true )



atleast i think you said your in walking distance from work so this doesnt disrupt your life too much eh

Strange to think its a jap engine yet they are an absolute pile of shite lol, suppose it is only a mazda engine though, not like its anything good to start with lol.

Anyway Chris, hopefully the strip down shows more of whats gone wrong.

Broke ANOTHER plastic clip? Good at that aren't you

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