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Fiesta-Si.com • View topic - TTF Si 2.0 - WOAH! An update! - 29/08/2014
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:57 pm 
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I did it on the pickup and well worth it, used high tensile bolts with some locknuts and washers.
They didnt come loose, and I couldnt see it being much of a problem.
Can't be arsed to make another set now tho, so will prob bite the bullet and get Ian to do some and then fit polys to them.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:14 pm 
what is that ball joint from? the non pas model? as i know the pas ones dont look like that and have 3 bolt things not two liek the non pas


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:50 pm 
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They all use 3 bolts now, well pattern parts do

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:16 pm 
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thanks danny. i understand the part where lowering changes the camber. just not how the lower arms counter acted it! thats sweet. i need a new set so when i change em i can have a look at mine to see how to do it. are ians just standard/pattern lower arms modified?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:31 am 
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I just researched the part number and it's a motaquip part number for a mk3 lower arm. Which then all he does is modify the ball joint and the arm to allow it to be camber adjusted. I may look into using the same lower arm, but the ones I usually get are motaquip ones with 3 studs, slightly different design but should be just as good if not perhaps better in some instances. His profit margin for these is immense!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 1:06 am 
haha yea, same as most his stuff...


3 stud one would be even safer if you refer to what i was trying to say, 3 bolts better than 2, just more filing :P


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:46 am 
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Yeah it is safer in many ways. Also, it depends what arm you use and how you look at it.

You can either use the box section earlier fiesta arm (the type shown in the picture on the previous page), or use the very late mk3.5 arm which then went on to being used on the KA too (as its a fiesta underneith).

I currently have the latter mk3.5 lower arms as they are much stronger (and I found out Ian Howell uses them now too) - they are drop forged rather than two thin pieces of pressed metal spot welded together to make a box section.

These are the latter mk3.5 arms. These are made by Ian with rose joints. But you can see how they differ from the earlier box section versions.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 2:41 pm 
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how much does ian howell charge for those arms with the rose joints? might be worth just buying a set off him then you know they are pukka, without having to shell out on arms and risk cocking it up.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 2:50 pm 
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He sells them for £295.

I can get the arms for free (under warranty) and i've done more complex things than make camber adjustable lower arms before :lol: this is literally a walk in the park to some of the stuff I have made before :) I just need to find time when I can be arsed to do it :D

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 2:53 pm 
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for £295 id buy the ian howell ones lol

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:21 pm 
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I couldn't justify spending that much personally, not on a set of lower arms anyway. Perhaps if I had that much to chuck away then yeah I would, but at this moment in time there is no way I could lol

Just researching the price of spherical bearings and so far I have found of they are much cheaper poly bushes :D I just need to find out what size/type the lower arms need and then find out the price :)

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 4:21 pm 
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What the good thing about those spherical bearings?

When you make a set of these can I come up for the day and make a set with you lol i'll just copy you :D

Still need to pop up sometime and do some shizzle and go for a drive. Saying that i'm only about a 10-15 minuite drive from you right now :lol: thinking of going up portsdown later with the misses for a bit.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:01 pm 
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I shall probably be up the hill later at some point. I'm always up there lol.

Spherical bearings are must stronger and last longer bascially.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:35 pm 
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Cool well let me know the price of these and stuffffff so I can sort mine out too.

Well give me a text when your going up there and i'll let you know if i'll be there around the same time, or i'll text you if I leave before you, probably go to the burger van car park. bring your camera! lol

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:47 pm 
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Yeah thats where I shall be. If im up there before you, I will be on the right hand side, usually past the burger van. I refuse to park on the left, its for gays. Simple as that lol.

Yeah I shall bring my camera. Its 99% always with me anyway :)

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 3:52 pm 
i dont see why you two say you need help with making them, just use a grinder, saw what ever you deem fit to cut the old bolts off the ball joints, buy yourself some matching thread size high tensile stainless bolts with matching washers, x2 per botl and a nylon locking nut, file the single hole as above, the amount you file will determined how far you can adjust, and then file the paired holes closest to the ball join on the ball joint housing (NOT THE ARM!)

bolt the joint to the arm using said bolts nice and tight! (id guess atleast 75lbs/ft)

then fit the arms, then get it tracked, best really if you know the guy tracking it to explain what you've done



ian charges how much?!

like hell i could justify that when you can do the job yourself for a hours work :(

its not much to cock up on kris, as long as you know how to use a grinder and file your ok


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 4:16 pm 
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Thanks for the very much un-needed explanation on how to do it when I already know lol

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 5:26 pm 
wasnt talking to you


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 11:45 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 2:04 am 
lol np


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