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Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 8:55 pm Posts: 266 Location: Leicestershire
Drives:
take it easy first 500miles or so and do a compression test, if it seems normal the rings have bedded in and you can thrash it like fook after an oil change
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:35 pm Posts: 9972 Location: Up'T North - Doncaster
Drives:
Tesco value oil, new filter, unplug HT leads crank over till oil pressure light goes out, plug HT leads in, start, hold at 3000rpm for a few mins.
Drive 500miles using no more than 4000rpm, never putting the engine under load (ie high gear low speed), don't use full throttle, check oil daily, avoid motorway miles.
After 500 miles swap oil and filter for reccomended oil, then after every extra 100 miles raise the Rpm 1000.
And God its boring running an engine in!
_________________ RIP Ben. Gone but not forgotten.
SportKA - I've driven one and its deffinately a Girls car
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:35 pm Posts: 9972 Location: Up'T North - Doncaster
Drives:
Will also insure everythings well oiled up that should be and allows heat treating of parts as well.
I've heard other people say that they drive hard for a few hundred miles then just drive normally there after.
Someone said to me as well that he, puts Tesco value oil in on intial start up, then once the engine up to temperature he turns off, then does an oil change and does the 500 miles way.
Also depends what type of engine, like mine, i've gone from a High CR engine to a Low CR engine, so the standard map isn't right, so im having to drive extra steady. So by me Reving to high and having under load will cause damage as its not mapped right.
Best way id say is look in your haynes mannual and speak to a tuner with experience with your engine, me i spoke to GMC and sandy brown, zetec turbo guys Ian howell, cosworth Rayland etc and see what they reccomend.
I don't think you have anything to worry about really providing everythings Torqued up right, bolts that need to be replaced (stretch) have been, everything was cleaned before it goes back in and you checked everything was in tollarence's with plasiguage etc.
_________________ RIP Ben. Gone but not forgotten.
SportKA - I've driven one and its deffinately a Girls car
I used to work in a heat treating plant and the temperature the engine gets to is no where near what heat treating is, well unless you have no oil and its welding its self together
Im not worrying, i no exactly how to do it, i just wanted to see other peoples views on the matter.
Pretty much spot on except i would change the oil alittle more frequently as you cant do any damage changing it to much.
I would be driving round like normal by 200miles, with half boost but full throtle and higher rpm. maybe 5250 ( my limit at 7200rpm ) then every 50 miles up another 500rpm.just not thrashing the tits off it. full boost and rag the balls off by 750miles,
this is how ive run all the engines in that ive built, from YB lumps to CVH pintos K series.
I tried the slow running in method on a pinto i did and by 5000miles the bores had glazed and it was using far more oil than it should of been and wasnt making as much power as other pintos run in the quicker way.
Also had discussions with various tuners that say dont take it easy
I would never drive a car that didnt have the correct map, especsialy (sp) if it was forced induction
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:35 pm Posts: 9972 Location: Up'T North - Doncaster
Drives:
Gone from 10.2:1 to 8.6:1, plan to get a De-comp plate from DP engineering from Holland, and slap it on the my Old Rallye engine, with a CR of 8.9:1, and get it mapped on the de-comp plated engine, as it wont need running in, while i raise the CR on the Forged one and do some other bits, baffeled sump etc
Not sure on AFR.
Can't get Base map as i need to get the Omex fitted, but im still toying with the idea of KMS Dam you world wide web
_________________ RIP Ben. Gone but not forgotten.
SportKA - I've driven one and its deffinately a Girls car
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