Take the rocker cover off and pour oil over the cams and like terry said hold it at about 2.5-3k for a few minutes (obviously with the rocker cover back on)

_________________
RIP Ben. Gone but not forgotten.

SportKA - I've driven one and its deffinately a Girls car

Ford Fair 2010 0-60 7.45 secs Trek 4100

Save the trees, wipe your arse with a Cosworth

Hello,

It runs and it moves!!

However there are some teething problems but that's to be expected.

1. The idle seems to be too low coming close to 500rpm, whereas it used to be 900ish rpm. What's the possible cause and can it be adjusted?

2. The clutch/cable/mechanism is giving some probems. The arm which connects to the clutch cable on the gearbox comes alot closer to the end of the cable than it used to. This causes the pedal to come very close to the floor, giving little play before the clutch snatches. I have spaced out the cable to make it tighter, which does raise the pedal and gives more travel but it still snatches as opposed to be gradually taken up. The new cluch had 'low-lift' written on it I seem to recall, not sure if this would make a difference. I'm not too sure why it would do this, but I take it that the spindle that connects to the clutch release bearing can't be adjusted to take up the 'slack' as it were - or is it possible that I have installed it wrong!

3. A possible hair-line crack in the thermostat housing, it may be fixed with some rad weld.

4. I think that I must have put the brakes back on incorrectly because they rub and cause a smell - at least I think it's coming from there.

The negative wire to the alternator is crudely soldered on, but I presume it's doing it's job. Time will tell.

Apart from these problems, everything seems to be in order and I can deffinatey tell that there's more power/torque on tap even from the limited drive I took around the block

Any help or information on the above issues would be appreciated.

Thanks, James.

_________________

_________________


Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.5TDI 163 Sport
Full Interior Lighting Pack - Puddle Lights, Footwell Lights, Door Markers, Handle Ambient Lights, Air Vent Illumination, Armrest Illumination, Roof Ambient Lights. Auto Dim Rear View Mirror, Cruise Control, Full DIS, Genuine 6 Disc CD Changer in Glovebox, RNSE, Remote Windows, Parrot Bluetooth, Storage Pack, Full Leather, Heated Mirrors

_________________

You can adjust the accelorator cable where it connects to the throttle body so it idles at your desired revs

_________________
Daily isn't so Special. And it makes me sad.
Need space and time and I'll crack on with Jams si!

Catch me on Facebook as I'm rarely on here.

_________________

yeah most mk3s are auto adjusting but some people change the rachet to manual because the auto ones aparently sometimes go wrong mine was changed by the previous owner

_________________


Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.5TDI 163 Sport
Full Interior Lighting Pack - Puddle Lights, Footwell Lights, Door Markers, Handle Ambient Lights, Air Vent Illumination, Armrest Illumination, Roof Ambient Lights. Auto Dim Rear View Mirror, Cruise Control, Full DIS, Genuine 6 Disc CD Changer in Glovebox, RNSE, Remote Windows, Parrot Bluetooth, Storage Pack, Full Leather, Heated Mirrors

_________________

_________________

_________________

_________________
RIP Ben. Gone but not forgotten.

SportKA - I've driven one and its deffinately a Girls car

Ford Fair 2010 0-60 7.45 secs Trek 4100

Save the trees, wipe your arse with a Cosworth

_________________

_________________

It's been a while since I posted about the car as I have been busy at uni and the car has just been taking day to day abuse rather than any work being put in

The 2.0 litre has been in for 3 months and 2000 miles and is doing me proud. There are a few minor problems that i'm going to sort out as i'm at home with time to work on it.

It has a water leak still as mentioned previously and i'm pretty sure that it's coming from the T piece section where I think it connects up to the heater matrix. There's 2 hose clips on but it's not holding the pressure.
Any one had this problem, what's the best solution? I think I can get away with not replacing the hoses but need to find a way of creating a strong connection.

Also, a problem from before, where I snapped the negative termninal off of the alternator but now I have realised that the crap soldering i did is loose and i'm not too sure how it's even making a connection
I need to find a way of attaching the wire, maybe using a chemical weld? But I have no knowledge whatsoever on doing it as I just heard about it on a forum topic somewhere.

When the fan kicks in the revs still are dropping to about 600 for a second before regaining idle, it's not too much of a problem but i'd still like to figure out what's causing it.

Finally, not to do with the conversion but my exhaust is hanging a bit on the rear and I think it may have lost a mount, or i'll have to make one to hold it up better for the speed bumps

Sorry about the life story, just wanted to see if any one else has experienced those problems.

Anyway, today I painted my cam cover in some black VHT paint:



It looks nice but really shows up the crappy exhaust heat shield

One more thing, I'm thinking of colour coding my alloys, I think it'll stand out (not that white doesn't ) but I'm still not sure if it'll just look gash. Have anyone got or seen Mallard green wheels to match the paintwork?

Thanks, James.

_________________

looks good james

got rid of the mouse then?

lol, yeah I think the mouse has moved on. Hopefully the painted cam cover will confuse it if it comes back!

_________________

you liking the difference that the 2.0 brings compares to the 1.6?

_________________


Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.5TDI 163 Sport
Full Interior Lighting Pack - Puddle Lights, Footwell Lights, Door Markers, Handle Ambient Lights, Air Vent Illumination, Armrest Illumination, Roof Ambient Lights. Auto Dim Rear View Mirror, Cruise Control, Full DIS, Genuine 6 Disc CD Changer in Glovebox, RNSE, Remote Windows, Parrot Bluetooth, Storage Pack, Full Leather, Heated Mirrors