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Fiesta-Si.com • View topic - Petrol Blue Fiesta Si130,, Failed MOT, welding work needed!
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 2:02 pm 
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ive been on zsoc theres no date set yet.

so have you changed both the vacuum servo and master cylinder here?


i take it this is the mod you have to do if you do a brake conversion to get a better pedal feel?

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Suzuki Ignis Sport - ITG Maxogen - Japspeed 4-1 - Decat - 2" custom single box Scorpion exhaust 3" tip - Magnecor leads - Air con Removed - Apex 35mm springs - OMP Strut brace - Whiteline rear arb - EBC Greenstuff front pads - MTEC grooved/drilled discs - Team Dynamics Pro rally 15X6J ET28 - Toyo tyres - Rallyflapz - Black lamps - Smoked repeaters - Sparco pedals - Stripped 40kgs rear interior
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 6:42 pm 
wow thanks guys,
percy your a star :) and i appreciate the effort, as if its not going to get its max out of the cams id have been stuck wondering why, but yea thanks means alot :)

ive been messing with fiestas for 3 years now and its always me doing the work, so you just pick things up, unless i aint got the right tool for it like say a valve spring compressor, and in that case if its not expensive ill just go buy the tool as ill always need one again, but in that case i aint got the means to do the job its up the local mechanics

but i take alot of pride in my work, i can sit there for minutes just staring at a picture of any given enhancement, from wheels to the servo :P i like how it looks better with the improved part :P



:halo:

umm yea both servo and the master cylinder, the cylinder seems far bigger and bulkier, only down side to it was my car beign the ABS model only has two outputs on the cyl and a 4 way bridge attached to the body that splits the lines to all 4 corners
so this cylinder has the normal 4 out puts so ive had to blank 2 of them off


ive found that you can run 260s or 280s front brakes with the standard servo fine, its when you fit rear discs on top that the standard servo starts to suffer

but ive chosen to fit it because if you have ever driven a brand new car (or much newer atleast) you find that when you press the brake pedal the brakes bite straight away, where as in the older fiestas it takes till about half way to the floor before things bite, and i dont like that, bleed the system all you want its just how the servo in the mk3 etc are so a bigger one will help get more feel and response :)

well thats the plan at least once its bled up ill let you know :P


coudlnt do it earlier as ive spent the whole day swapping parts from a wrotten LDV convoy over to a worn out convoy :hsugh: them slidey doors are a right bugger lol


i dont know when the date is yet hes just trying to get a attending count, to begin the booking

i dont deal with him on ZSOC, i text him :gheeyyy:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 7:40 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:36 pm 
oh yes!

bled the brakes took her for a quick spin, shes deffo quicker :D all top and though so hard to use that round the little village

and the brakes are much better, still needs to be bled through once more to get the biting point better but oof! :D


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 11:13 pm 
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Funnily when I get use to the focus and get back in the C2 I nearly hit the windscreen first time I press the brakes.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 12:09 am 
haha Awesome!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 1:41 pm 
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the brakes on c2s are lethal!! drove one in work i nearly put myself through the windscreen lol

i thought you could just change the master cyl thats why i asked??

and i know what you mean with the pedal travel, but mine is really quite low to the floor with the 280mm. plus im gona have discs on the back so god knows what it will be like then!! so im gona need to do this conversion.

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Suzuki Ignis Sport - ITG Maxogen - Japspeed 4-1 - Decat - 2" custom single box Scorpion exhaust 3" tip - Magnecor leads - Air con Removed - Apex 35mm springs - OMP Strut brace - Whiteline rear arb - EBC Greenstuff front pads - MTEC grooved/drilled discs - Team Dynamics Pro rally 15X6J ET28 - Toyo tyres - Rallyflapz - Black lamps - Smoked repeaters - Sparco pedals - Stripped 40kgs rear interior
125.4BHP 126.6LBFT


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 2:07 pm 
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Personally i wouldnt bother with the discs on the back, ive heard that they have a common problem of constantly locking up. In my eyes unless they come as standard dont do it.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:45 pm 
well i half agree with kris, if theyr'e not standard and there's a commonly identified problem with it, unless your prepared to go that extra mile to resolve it, dont bother to fit the discs, specially as you intend to use that Si on track i recall?

if you brake hard on a bend round castle combe with someone tight behind you your gonna lock up and spin, which is gonna be a dangerous situation

you will need to fit a bias valve to reduce the pressure going to the back, i found one on ebay for £46 for one, and theyr'e single line so you'd need two :(

unless you can find something else


umm i dont think just changing the cylinder will do much, beside the fiesta one has the bolt holes far wider apart than the escort one, and maybe the plunger shaft is shorter/wider or just not compatible with the servo when changing

as my old man found out with his capri :P


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:28 pm 
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What model cams have you got as most require setting to a set lift on each cam ie: a set lift at 110 degree after tdc and at 110 degree before tdc on each cam. Check your cams against Kent website. I set mine to standard then adjusted them on the verniers and it makes a heck of a difference once there dialed in correctly

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:49 pm 
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Drum brakes ftw :)

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 8:08 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 8:47 pm 
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you can only adjust cams with vernier cam pulleys. just save up and get some if you need them 100% saying that though, kent may have designed them to work on standard timing. shawspeed did with Chris' cams on his ZS, thats why we didnt fit verniers - but of course if you want to be extremely anal and get the absolute 100% most out of the cam by advancing and retarding the cams by a couple of degrees then verniers are what you need :)

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 10:58 pm 
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Exactly what I did with the pipers and it did make a difference.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 12:41 am 
so just need to find myself 160 quid then :P


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:50 am 
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You don't need verniers as the cams aren't locked against the pulley, you need a DTI gauge and you measure the lift of the tappet. Say you need 6mm lift at 110degree after tdc you set the engine to that with the timing wheel on the crank, loosen the inlet cam from pulley. Put you gauge on no1 inlet tappet and turn cam till youget thecorrect lift, tighten back up and then set the exhaust one. Takes a few tries and is easier with verniers but can be done without

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:21 pm 
ok thanks

ill need to find out the lift i need then for each cam and how to use the dti gauge :P


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:26 pm 




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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 7:28 pm 
been messing about with the Si again today

got a few things done

firstly got the brakes bled right, bites perfectly now, and im quite excited about that when i get it on the road thursday


then come home and dug out my Puma linkage read to start adapting it to fit, need some springs first though, theyre needed for the neutral return
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while doing that i also found this, turns out mk4's and mk3's aint so different after all, it will bolt straight on :)
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and found this under the carpetting :o
some sort of diary, but its got no important details in it :P
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stepping away from the boot,
just some pics of how much bigger the escort servo is, and as a bonus the jack and brace still fit where theyr'e mean to with room!
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back to the brace
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holes marked, then drilled
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then i started painting the brace
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can you guess what colour?
its intentionally thin layered, its to give a "aquatic" effect :P
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and laquer
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Wanted to use self tapers so i can remove it when i need the space, so some T4 torq screws were used
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after fitting it i realised my sub would no longer fit how it was, so now its had to go in facing the opposite way, which thinking about it looks more beneficial anyway :P
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but had to move the amp as its not going to be ventilated very well up against the carpet
and then i realised what make it is haha
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finishing touch, you can see the paint effect too
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:)

im in the middle of repairing my stupid bodge of using bolts in a tapped hole to hold the window hinges in place, im using rivets this time round, they used to move slightly when driving and squeek :banghead:

as the hole was too big i had to weld a new hole in place, the plastic is a washer to stop any noises,
BIG rivets :P
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will finish that off tomorrow and the opposite side


this car is going to be so different once its back on the road, as when i swapped the PAS pump it now has stiffer steering, all i can imagine is the new pump has done less miles and has less play, so it feels different by that alone, then the cams, brace, wheels and brakes on top! :wth:
going to be like a different car!

more tomorrow, hope you enjoyed


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:49 pm 
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nice work mate.

the strut brace look lovely but personally i would have bolted it up tight, i dont think they are supposed to be fitted with self tappers.

i need to rivet my pop outs properly as well, didnt have big enough rivets before, the holes there are big lol.

with my rear discs i was planning on fitting the bigger servo and bias valves anyway, i aint fuking around with fiesta, everything will be done properly, hence why its taking so long lol...

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Suzuki Ignis Sport - ITG Maxogen - Japspeed 4-1 - Decat - 2" custom single box Scorpion exhaust 3" tip - Magnecor leads - Air con Removed - Apex 35mm springs - OMP Strut brace - Whiteline rear arb - EBC Greenstuff front pads - MTEC grooved/drilled discs - Team Dynamics Pro rally 15X6J ET28 - Toyo tyres - Rallyflapz - Black lamps - Smoked repeaters - Sparco pedals - Stripped 40kgs rear interior
125.4BHP 126.6LBFT


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