|
2.0 Blacktop - focus/mondeo into mk3, this is more complicated than you first think. Im not going to write a step by step guide, to much effort for that, so heres the main points. Use your common sense and all will be good. What i recommend is that you completley build the engine up with starter/alternator, mounts, drive belts etc before you put it in the car so that you can see how it needs to go together. Then if you need to take something off and do some modding, its not allready on the car.
-Sump/pickup pipe, allso please note, focus and mondeo sumps/pickup pipes are different. You can use either but make sure their a matched pair. Sump on these is split into a upper and lower part. The upper part will foul the starter motor. So you need to get the angle grinder out and remove whats in the way. (Not as bad as you think) Also on the rear part of it, it fouls the inner driveshaft, again get the angle grinder out and cut it off.
-Engine mounts.
Option 1
Ditch all fiesta engine mounts, Mount it via focus engine mount and bracket. Bracket incorporates middle cam belt cover. Doing it this way would require you to cut and shut the middle of the chassis leg, and be handy with a welder.
Option 2 - What i did:
Ditch the fiesta front engine mount. As for the back, the silver bracket, i had to drill a new hole (see pic) and was able to bolt it to block via the 2 holes furthest from each other. From that i was able to create a bracket, made from a thick piece if steel, with three holes in it that allowed me to bolt the original 16V mount up to it. See Diagram/Pics.
-Alternator/PAS mount.
The standard bracket for alternator/PS or just alternator type, will bolt to the blacktop block via 4 of the original bolt holes. Some bolt holes are only slightly out but the 4 bolts are more than enough to hold it.
Ive got rid of PAS which has made this much easier for me, creates more space to play with and mite of even freed up a few extra horsys. Ive used the zetec non PAS mount whcich has a manual drive belt tensioner adjuster. Ive had grind out some of the inside of the mount so it clears the waterpump housing, and take some more of at back so the waterpump actually fits into the housing, see pics. Also at the top of this ive drilled a hole and mounted a ribbed pulley. This required to route the drive belt so that the waterpump is run of the back of the belt so it turns the correct way.
If i had done this with PAS then it would have got complicated and would of need a lot more modding.
-Manifolds/sandwhich plate/injectors
Stud patterns for manifolds are exactly same as silvertop engines.
Ive used a Rs1800 inlet manifold/throttle body, (early 2.0 mondeo one is the same but you need to modify linkage)
Exhaust ive used standard SI 16v one.
Injectors ive used 2.0 mondeo mk1 ones, in a 16v sandwhich plate.
-Cooling
Ive used standard rad, ideally i think you could use a bigger rad with the 2.0 as it tends to get quite warm.
All thermostat housing are the same so no problem there.
Hoses, all standard ones are fine, apart from bottom hose/water rail hose. See pics. The housing for the waterpump sticks out quite away and the outlet for rad ends up very close to the inlet for the pump. So you have to make a pipe that goes up, round down etc. And it needs to have a take off to connect to other bit of pipe. Bear in mind that the hose needs to be able to flex a bit as the engine rocks a little when accellerating.
-Sensors/ecu
Ive used standard si 16v wiring loom with a mondeo 2.0 ecu with the code DEEP, allthough DESK/DEWY will work fine.
Sensors are all standard SI 16v items, apart from Air Mass Meter which is mk1 mondeo 2.0 one too match the ecu.
For the crank sensor, ive used the housing from the SI 16v, im not sure if its different but dont want to chance it. If your engines from a auto it deffinatly is different.
-Flywheel/Clutch/Box
Im using ERST S2 LSD box, which works beautifully, allthough any mk3 box will fit as well.
Flywheel is a standard 16v item, as is the clutch.
If you want a light flywheel, a FRST flywheel is lighter, but the bolt holes need to be drilled slightly.
The shim that goes between geabox and block, you may need to cut and shut bits, easier to see when youve got it in front of you.
Now maybe a good time to mention that you wont get every single bolt in to bolt box to the block.
The result; it runs smooth and fast. I fully rebuilt my engine; rings, bearings the lot, just make sure you get a decent engine. Oh and fit your cam belt covers... i didnt and my drive belt chewed in to my cambelt and 8 new valves later... you get the picture.
If theres something ive missed, please ask.
Will be uploading pics as i can.
_________________
- A forum dedicated to the Fiesta Mk7 - 1 year old and going strong!
Info and guides on the Mk3 Fiesta
I like boost! Formerly cookie456_the2nd
|
Login
Register
Main Website
Search
