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 Post subject: How to adjust handbrake?
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:42 pm 
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Si failed its not one being the handbrake, how do I get the heat shields off to get at the adjuster? Look like the fittings are under the carpet

Also rear ARB bracket snapped, do I need the ARB on for an MOT? (edit) found some new old stock brackets but if there not here in time will it pass with the ARB missing?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:09 pm 
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Mr Sam wrote:
Si failed its not one being the handbrake, how do I get the heat shields off to get at the adjuster? Look like the fittings are under the carpet

Also rear ARB bracket snapped, do I need the ARB on for an MOT? (edit) found some new old stock brackets but if there not here in time will it pass with the ARB missing?


1) personaly i never use the adjuster, i do it manualy on the rear hubs (way i qwas taught in the garage and the way i'll stick with.) less work and eastyer to get to.

but if you want to take the heat sheilds off you can do it by fitting a hex socket onto the hex shapped bent bits of (rusty and fragile..... us tones of wd40!!) metal. i wouldn't taker the sheilds off as i've snapped the center screw bits off before on a scrap car doing this.

2) as far as i'm aware, if you take the WHOLE anti roll bar bracket off and fittings then its ok as some of the mk3.5 fiestas didn't have anti roll bars full stop.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 5:24 pm 
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Couldn't get the drums off can I get them off with a hub puller or do I need to undo the 4 bolts for the stub axel (there rounded off and rusty)

Got some NOS arb brackets but one side the but is rounded off :-(



Thanks for your help I'll try get the drums off again


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:35 pm 
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Drums are easy to get off, just undo the hub nut, and it will pull off with a bit of persuasion. If not, tap it with a rubber mallet or something to losen up the shoes slightly, it'll come off :)

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:30 pm 
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make sure you have the hand brake off as the shoes will hold the drum on, simple thing but alot of people forget :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:24 pm 
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It was the bearing wouldt slip off to let the drum off with lots of gentle persuasion followed by hammer
couldn't even get the other side hub but off,

Good news is I got the ARB back on with fresh brackets

Going to book it In for the handbrake and retest, thank you all for your help I nearly traded it in for a Ka :-/ I do miss a pushrod I also miss my Volvo turbo, the zetecs power band is so smooth I miss the kick in the bum of a turbo when it comes on boost :P


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:26 pm 
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Done mk1 fez brakes enough times the drum just slips off fine but these ones don't want to budge the mrs wanted to follow the Haynes and take the stub off but I didn't want to disturb the brake pipes


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:13 am 
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Mr Sam wrote:
Done mk1 fez brakes enough times the drum just slips off fine but these ones don't want to budge the mrs wanted to follow the Haynes and take the stub off but I didn't want to disturb the brake pipes

letteraly the only way that hub comes off, take the wheel off and take the centre nut off. take handbrake off, bith the bub a propper 'yank and jiggle' (yer thats the tecnical term for the day) and as danny said buse a plastic or copper mallet if need be as well. if there really tight then there probly binding. don't touch the 4 bolts for the axle to drum though.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:37 am 
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Even with the handbrake off, if the inside of the drum is heavily worn there is a lip on the outer edge that the shoes just will not go over!

Why not touch the 4 bolts on the back Sam?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 7:53 am 
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DanFraser wrote:
Even with the handbrake off, if the inside of the drum is heavily worn there is a lip on the outer edge that the shoes just will not go over!

Why not touch the 4 bolts on the back Sam?

well them shoes are only asbestos (or the equivelent) so personaly even with a lip i'd still get a lever bar in between the gap and tear the hubs off. just get brand new shoes at the cost of ? what a tenner? also by taking the 4 rear bolts off what essactly are you hopeing for in doin this?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:46 am 
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Took it to the garage in the end all sorted £125 down inc the re test and a bit of extra welding they found

*sigh* just got to tax it now and about ready for another service, thanks everyone for the advice


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