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 Post subject: EGR Removal
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 4:49 pm 
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The Sherminator!
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not sure if this has been posted or not, but i borrowed it from ft :lol:

Ok here it is, hope it makes sense....

Why do I want to do this?

To be honest...I'm not sure, personally I'm building a track car and want as little clutter and crap in the engine bay as possible. Also the pulse air injectors have something to do with emmsions and probably economy, something I'm not to worried about as the car is to be used on track.

Some people say theres a performance gain but I'm not convinced but for a total of £4.70 and about 30mins work you can't go wrong really.


What do I need?

Spanners/sockets/toolkit
4 x 6732263 - Copper washers (see pic below)
4 x 1008597 - Blanking Plugs (see pic below)


Image


Image

What do I need to do?

ok you need to start by removing the MAF sensor and inlet/crossover pipe so your engine now looks a bit like this (only less blurry and probably cleaner!)


Image

Once thats removed you also need to remove the fan, you can do this by removing the 10mm bolt from the top mounting. It's easier to get out if you unclip the starter motor wiring and fan wiring from it first so it doesn't catch on the water piping nearby.

Next remove the manifold heat shield, first undo the 2 8mm bolts holding the metal water pipe in place and then theres only 4 bolts - 2 into the head and 2 into the manifold to get the heatsheild off. You can now see what we're trying to remove:

Image

Then it's just a case of getting a 19mm spanner and undoing the pipes 1 by 1....if your car is anything like mine then they are probably a bit difficult to remove so I decided to get a 19mm 6 sided socket on them. The pipes are very thin and cut easily...as you can see:

Image

To remove the pulse air piping follow the 2 metal pipes down towards the starter and you'll see a big black box bolted to the block infront of the crank position sensor. Remove the 2 10mm bolts and unplug the vacum hose then carefully remove the whole assemby making sure you don;t damage the radiator.

This is what we've removed...you can see the pipes that go inside the mainfold here:

Image

This is it all removed:


Image

now all you need to do is get the 4 washers and blanking plugs and an 8mm allen key and screw them into the holes in the maifold.
Also, remember that vacum hose you unplugged? All you need to do is follow it back to the solonoid on the bulk head and cut the pipe short, then all I did was block it off with a bolt...If anyone has a better suggestion then please let me know.

And in true Haynes manual fashion......re-fitting is the reverse of removal!


Last edited by onslack on Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:05 pm 
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FSI Poster
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FT dont allow u to hotlink :(

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:17 pm 
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The Sherminator!
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ok i will sort it, thats wierd tho as i can see the pics on mine :?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:21 pm 
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you have the pics from the address on those pics cached, thats why you can see them. refresh on this page, and you will see what we all see :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:04 pm 
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The Sherminator!
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any luck now?



yeah your right aaron 8-) , silly me :red:


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:36 pm 
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yah thats it,i'll be doing this to the 2l before it gets fitted :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:40 pm 
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out of curioustiy where do u get the washers and blanking plates :look:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:52 pm 
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ford :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 1:46 pm 
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this should be done as a matter of course lol, the erg is shitt and costs £400 :shock: to replace

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Last edited by lowsi on Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 1:57 pm 
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lowsi wrote:
this should be done as a matter of course lol, the erg is shitt and costs £400:shock: to replace


mines removed.. mad my car alot more 'poppy'


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 2:41 pm 
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yer mines done, does help a bit the size of them restrics ur engine./..


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:22 pm 
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apparantly when this system is faulty there can be back fire, stalling and poor idle so wouldnt removing it have the same effects? :? :(

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:24 pm 
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Mole259 wrote:
apparantly when this system is faulty there can be back fire, stalling and poor idle so wouldnt removing it have the same effects? :? :(


Obviously not, there ain't nothing to get blocked if it isn't there?? :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 6:57 pm 
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The Sherminator!
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Mole259 wrote:
apparantly when this system is faulty there can be back fire, stalling and poor idle so wouldnt removing it have the same effects? :? :(



i dont have any of these, i have idle issues but thats been said that its my ISCV, and i had it before i took my EGR off


moe's work's perfectly fine as well, as far as i know ;)


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 7:38 pm 
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not had a single problem with it :)


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:46 pm 
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so does it make a big difference then??? might do it to mine :insanity:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:59 pm 
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well to say the truth.. i felt no difference atall..

but then i also dont have before and after RR to prove anything.. so i cant say..

but for £5 you realyl cant go wrong :P


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 1:08 pm 
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i tried to do it but the fooking this threaded itself
so don't know what to do now :homo:
nevermind, hopefully wont have this engine for too long anyway

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:23 am 
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Think I'm gonna do this to eliminate that from making my car run sh*t

My car can also backfire, but thats once the revs are coming down from 7500 :rolleyes: :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: EGR Removal
PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 6:22 pm 
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my si's got a snapped egr pipe so is blowing badly going to have to do this tuesday now :look:

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