Index Page Find us on Facebook  Find us on twitter  Follow our RSS Feed
It is currently Mon Oct 23, 2017 1:29 am

All times are UTC [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 17 posts ] 

Did you find this guide helpful
Yes 100%  100%  [ 16 ]
No 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Total votes : 16
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:26 pm 
Offline
FSi Donator
FSi Donator

Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 2:36 pm
Posts: 2628
Location: Shropshire \ London \ Kent
Drives: BMW E90 330D M Sport
OVERVIEW:
When it comes to painting your car, you don't have to be a professional to achieve a showroom finish. Thanks to the quality of paints and lacquers on the market, you can save yourself a fortune when touching up slight damage or re-spraying repaired bodywork. However, the key to effective spray painting is preparation and patience - compromise on either and the results will be glaringly obvious...

TOOLS NEEDED:
Abrasive papers, rust treatment (if required), cellulose thinners, masking tape, primer, paint and lacquer. Plus masks, gloves and overalls (if required). You may also need Isopon P38, P40 and Bumper filler if the item being sprayed needs blending or a dent repaired etc..

COST:
Depends on the item you are spraying, as you may need several cans. a can of primer, paint or lacquer normal cost around ?4.99 each from most car accessory shops such as Halfords. Body fillers are normally around the same price too. Always use a budget of at least ?30 for all your paint, fillers and sanding paper etc.

SPRAYING:
1) Warm and dry conditions are ideal for spray painting, as aerosols don't always work best in the damp and colder temperatures hinder drying time. If it's not warm and dry outside, work in a well-ventilated garage. Wear overalls or old clothes - goggles and a mask will keep stray droplets of paint away from your eyes, nose and mouth.

2) To prepare for spraying, use aluminium oxide abrasive paper (graded at 80grit) and rub the surface to be painted down to bare metal. Apply a rust treatment product if required, following the manufacturer's instructions and allowing it to dry fully. Use a finner grad paper for sanding plastics or fibreglass.

3) If the part in question needs any sort of repair or blending, now's the time to do it. If its a hole your repairing use some P40 fibreglass filler on the inside of the hole and once set, skimm over it with a small amount of P38. Always use the smallest amount of filler possible on body repairs, as they have a tendance to crack if you use to much of it, if you think for example a holes to big to use filler, get it welded instead. If you are blending an item that is flexable never use P38 as once it has set hard on the item, any movement from the item will make it crack, use Ispon bumper filler instead as it has flexable properties and shouldnt crack with slight movment.

4) Once all the filling work has been done and its dried, sand it all back so that its flush to the panel\item your working on and clean the area thoroughly and wait for it to dry.

5) The area to be painted should now be clean and dry - any traces of dirt or wax can be removed using cellulose thinners. Mask off any areas not being painted using masking tape and paper (to avoid hard edges, increase the area to be painted by moving the masking tape back gradually as you apply each coat of paint).

6) Before priming you need to choose the right primer for the car depending on the final paint colour. WHITE for lighter coloured cars, RED for orange\red tonned paint or GREY for darker paint colours, if its plastic or fibreglass your painting then get plastic primer instead of normal body primer.

7) Holding the spray can approximately 25cm away from the surface to be painted, apply a number of coats of primer at 15-minute intervals until the area is evenly covered. Go an inch over the original layer of paint to help it blend in (to create an even softer edge, peel the masking tape back from the surface slightly). When spraying, use a smooth movement from side to side. It is best to apply several light layers of paint, as applying too much paint in one go can create sags and runs.

8) Allow at least 24 hours for the primer to dry thoroughly, then rub down with 1200grit wet and dry paper until smooth. Clean the area with warm, soapy water, rinse, then dry fully.

9) To start painting, shake the can vigorously for two minutes to ensure the paint is thoroughly mixed. Apply a number of coats at 15-minute intervals, shaking the can between each one.

10) If you're using a metallic colour, allow the paintwork 24 hours to dry then rub it down with 1200 grit wet and dry paper. It should lose its gloss appearance and take on a dull, matt finish. Clean with warm, soapy water, rinse and dry.

11) Now apply two coats of lacquer, separated by a gap of 15-minutes. If the finish looks patchy, apply another coat or wait until the surface is completely dry before rubbing it down and starting the lacquering process again.

12) Allow new paintwork at least two weeks to harden, then use a rubbing compound to blend it in with the old paintwork if needed.

Anything ive forgotten, i'll edit the post and update it. This is only a guide created by myself which has always worked, use it at your own risk as different materials sometimes have different effects..............................happy spraying !

_________________
Image
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:35 pm 
Offline
FSI Supporter
FSI Supporter

Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 12:33 pm
Posts: 1367
Location: Guildford
very helpful mate


id be alrite with smaller things but this will be helpful when i come to spraying larger items that atract more attention.. cheers

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 1:58 am 
Offline
FSI Supporter
FSI Supporter

Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 7:28 pm
Posts: 4828
Location: Doncaster!
Drives: V70 T5
excellent mate.
If i was willing to do things like this to my car then it would probably come in handy
JJ

_________________
My ebay stuff http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/2.0zetec
ImageImage

Is that the best you can do?
www.volvot5.co.uk - www.germanshepherdsuk.co.uk
2000 V70 T5 SE - 2.3, 5 cylinder, 20V, VVT, Turbo, 250bhp, cream leather, climate control, the works!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:35 am 
Offline
Evil Admin
Evil Admin
User avatar

Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 8:31 pm
Posts: 13427
Location: Birmingham (near Sutton Coldfield)
Drives: Nissan Pulsar GTi-R
Great guide mate, well written. Will certainly help a few :)

Well done :D

_________________
Image
Image
Quote Clarkson, Top Gear, 17th July: "I'm not having a stroke... just driving a Nissan!"
Quote Ry, Mallory Park, 3rd Dec: "Ahhhh crap... Just a bit too over eager really!"
"I used to be an adventurer like you, but then I took an arrow in the knee"


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 11:09 am 
Offline
New Member
New Member

Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 11:17 am
Posts: 38
Location: Hertfordshire
Good guide mate.

The only thing i would add (from expercience) is that when spraying large areas its always a bit touch and go with spraying from tins.

The temp and air around you has to to be spot on as you can't adjust the air to paint ratio as you can with a gun. If air around you is too dry the paint shall start to dry before it reaches the surface being painted, resulting in an orange peal finish (all sort of pimpled and not a nice mirror finish) and then if the air is too wet the paint won't dry quick enough and shall bloom and possibly run.

I found it was best to spray in the summer evenings, try to pick a day when its not been extremely hot.

On a few occasions i was lucky enough to gain access to a compressor and gun which made things so much easier.

Really its best to be indoors (a WELL ventilated garage and wear a proper Respirator, sold at any paint factors) to enliminate bugs and such. i've been told to wet the floor to keep any unswept dust down.

But even so any inperfections found in the paint work can be sanded out (with high grain sand 1500grit).

When i was in New York not long ago i found a mag called Body and Spay....... sounds a bit sad i know but there was an article about respraying at home i haven't read it yet but shall get it scanned and put it up on here.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 2:34 pm 
Offline
FSi Donator
FSi Donator

Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 2:36 pm
Posts: 2628
Location: Shropshire \ London \ Kent
Drives: BMW E90 330D M Sport
Thanks for the comments. The guide was really for use with spray cans as most people dont have or have access to a compressor or spray guns. I know that you wont get the best finish from a can but just done this guide to get the best out of the tools you got.

_________________
Image
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:55 pm 
Offline
The Sherminator!
The Sherminator!

Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 6:10 pm
Posts: 22211
Location: Somewhere
great guide m8


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 9:45 am 
Offline
New Member
New Member

Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 11:17 am
Posts: 38
Location: Hertfordshire
95 Fiesta Si wrote:
Thanks for the comments. The guide was really for use with spray cans as most people dont have or have access to a compressor or spray guns. I know that you wont get the best finish from a can but just done this guide to get the best out of the tools you got.


Don't get me wrong. I know what you mean, i added to it just so that people know how to get the best from a can. i jus threw that bit in about the gun n that for the sake of it.... to excise my fingers a bit, they're lookin chubby :lol:

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:46 pm 
Offline
Donator? Ejaculator!
Donator? Ejaculator!

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 1:23 pm
Posts: 11348
Location: Lincoln
Drives: MK1 Focus Estate Ghia
*bookmarks for xmas*

Note to self: get off arse and try spray the fiestas crappy bits

_________________
Daily isn't so Special. And it makes me sad.
Need space and time and I'll crack on with Jams si!

Catch me on Facebook as I'm rarely on here.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:36 pm 
Offline
FSi Donator
FSi Donator
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:22 am
Posts: 1503
Location: Hertford, Hertfordshire
Drives: XR2i 2.3 Turbo
Is it simlar for using a compressor and spray gun?

_________________
http://www.fiestamk7.com - A forum dedicated to the Fiesta Mk7 - 1 year old and going strong!
http://www.fiestamk3parts.com/ Info and guides on the Mk3 Fiesta

I like boost! Formerly cookie456_the2nd


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: sprayin
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 10:23 pm 
Offline
FSI Poster
FSI Poster

Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:25 pm
Posts: 757
Location: surrey
thats amazing mate exaclty wat i have been looking for, im wanting to respray my car myself so its will be alot cheaper and even if it dont work out it can be sanded down and resprayed again


thanks
again mate for the tips

can you send me some pics of ur finished car after you sprayed it ?????

also how was the finish and did the respray last a long time


also how many coats of the colour should you use


thanks
GARRY


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:38 pm 
Offline
Donator? Ejaculator!
Donator? Ejaculator!

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 1:23 pm
Posts: 11348
Location: Lincoln
Drives: MK1 Focus Estate Ghia
You know the guide is just telling you how to sort out spraying bits with just spray cans..

If your gonna spray your hole car with compressor and gun, make sure you do some decent prep work! and spray it inside and proper conditions.

_________________
Daily isn't so Special. And it makes me sad.
Need space and time and I'll crack on with Jams si!

Catch me on Facebook as I'm rarely on here.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:40 pm 
Offline
FSI Poster
FSI Poster

Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:25 pm
Posts: 757
Location: surrey
yea hopefully i will be able to use my uncles lock up garage where i will prep the car really well
do i prime the whole car if doin it tht way?

i will do bumpers first to see how good i am at doin it then i will be brave depending on how they turn out and spray the whole car


i gt qoute for full respray and rust on car sorted out for 1400 lol i dnt have tht sort of money


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:32 pm 
Offline
FSI Supporter
FSI Supporter

Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 10:27 pm
Posts: 1570
Location: Oxfordshire, Banbury
no, no no! dont respray your car for the love of god, no matter how shi-te you think it looks now, IT WILL look 100 times worse after if you do it!

talk about running a marathon before you can even crawl!

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:40 pm 
Offline
FSI Poster
FSI Poster

Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:25 pm
Posts: 757
Location: surrey
are you talking from experience ???????


i dont intend on sprayiny the whole car straight away im gonna try doing bumpers first den i will try sprayin xr2 arches nd skirts then after that i will respray the undersills and do any rusty areas


im gonna try nd get help frm my mates that are doin bodywork apprenticeships so atleast someone has knowledge

no i would neva undertake a full respray straight away i would start small


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:04 pm 
Offline
FSI Supporter
FSI Supporter

Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 10:27 pm
Posts: 1570
Location: Oxfordshire, Banbury
well, things like mirror covers, door handles, sideskirts, bodykit pieces and the likes are the things to start with.

i did the rear quater on mine with a rattle can and it looked a right old pile of crap after, wished hadn't bothered.

i think its one of those things though, you've got it, or you ent..

yeh get your mates to do it at work or somethin

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:09 pm 
Offline
FSI Poster
FSI Poster

Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:25 pm
Posts: 757
Location: surrey
well to be honet mate i wont be using a spray can i would be using spray gun and compressor, for tht better finish.

also be doin it in the confines of a nice large garage where it will be away from the outside weather conditions


if skirts ect look good then i will move onto the car but the parts on car i will be doin first is the sills so if it does go wrong its not gonna costa arm and leg to get resprayed by professionals ,

but i am quite handy wit the spray can and compressor as i race those rc cars and i spray my own designs on them shells nd tht takes care as its on such a small scale


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 17 posts ] 

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron