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 Post subject: Delocking
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:29 pm 
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Recently done this so though i would post a guide up on how to do it for a fiesta.

Tools Needed:
Screwdriver (posidrive)
Pliers
Welder
Sanding blocks
Various grades of wet and dry and aluminium oxide paper
primer and paint

Firstly and most obviously the door lock barrel needs removing
To do this the internal door card need removing, this is case of unscrewing the door pull surround 1 screw, then removing .

Next is the door pocket and speaker grille. this is done by removing 3 screws on the top edge one at the rear one and one either side of the speker grille, once screws are removed the pocket will tip forward and lift up out of the retaining slots at the bottom. Later spec fiesta have the window swithces in these pockets so the multiplug of these will need disconnecting. Earlier fiesta have these in the centre console

Next the door handle. there are 2 types of handle fitted to the fiesta. the 2 point type which has 2 screws which are unscrewed from underneath the handle. and 3 point types which are connected by 3 screws these have a clip on cover which can be prised off using a flat blade, there are 2 screws behind this one at the top and one at the bottom the third screw is unscrewed from underneath the handles.

With this removed the door cards can be unclipped starting from the bottom, once all clips are undone the door card can be lifted off the retainers at the top.

now you will be able to see the inside of the door there is an clear plastic sheet inside the door now which if it hasn't already split will need cutting to access the lock barrel.

Now you can see 2 operating rods one going to the door handle and lock assembly and one going from the lock barrel to the lock assembly. both these need disconnetcing as the smoothing procedure will be easier with the handles removed.

Once disconnected the handles can be removed by unscrewing the 2 screws and removing the handle from the outside. the lock barrel can be romoved by pulling out the retaining plate the barrel can then be removed from the outside.

now the area around the lock will need sanding down to bare metal so the metal can be welded and so the filler can bond to the bodywork

The next step is to cover the hole where the lock used to be. this is done by cutting a plate of metal to fit over the hole. Now hold this in place from inside the door and tack into place using a welder. Now its held on go over the welds to make sure they are secure. you dont need to go all the way round the hole about 6 spots will do just make sure its secure.

Now put a really thin skim of fibreglass P40 this makes sure that no water can get into the bodywork and will stop rust.

Next comes the filler P38. Apply this in thin skims so it sets really hard. Sand down until smooth with the surounding body work. this sounds easy but it can take a long time and many coats of filler. You may need many new skims of filler to get it to the right level. the easiest way i found to feel if it was the correct profile was to close my eyes and run over the area with the plam of my hand when you cant feel any high or low spots you know the profile is right.

Blow the area over with a light coat of primer this will allow you to see any tiny imperfections in the surface of the filler such as tiny pinprick holes etc.

To get rid of these you need to apply bodystopper which is a really thin paste that will sit in the tiny holes. another method is to mix a small amount of P38 filler with celulose thinners to create a thin paste which will work in exactly the same way as bodystopper. this will need sanding down very lightly then priming again.

Repeat the process of priming until you have about3-4 coats of primer. sand this very lightly with 1200 grit wet and dry.

Spray with top coat until 3-4 layers have been built up. leave this for about a week so the paint has fully hardened.

After paint is 100% dry and hard t-cut the new paint work and blend into the existing colour of the panel. apply wax to the door.

JOB DONE

although it can be blended in i would strongly suggest getting the entire panel resprayed by profesionals

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:07 pm 
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Good guid mate, maybe you could of included some pictures :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:50 pm 
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i will do when i uopgrade my photo bucket account, its full

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 11:49 am 
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can use my photobucket account if you want :)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 3:25 pm 
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gotta find pics aswell, most my 2i ones are gone, so will prob do it witht he rst and final pics using the 2i

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:30 pm 
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Kewl be good to see how it done aswell :)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 8:13 pm 
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will show everything bar welding which i'll photoshop :lol:

not doing it to the rs turbo at the moment, but will sort it all out. gotta get my camera back off vix its still in her boot

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 11:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 7:46 pm
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Location: Woodville : Burton
Drives: 170bhp RS
do mine as well if you like :P

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 2:59 pm 
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Location: Land of the Rising Potato
scotty_boy wrote:
do mine as well if you like :P



Ha ha how wrong does that sound :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 9:57 pm 
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Little Godzuki wrote:
scotty_boy wrote:
do mine as well if you like :P



Ha ha how wrong does that sound :lol: :lol: :lol:


well he is queer and he does want me so what more can you expect...

how many more times do i have to say NO

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 11:33 pm 
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TonyBlackFRST wrote:
Little Godzuki wrote:
scotty_boy wrote:
do mine as well if you like :P



Ha ha how wrong does that sound :lol: :lol: :lol:


well he is queer and he does want me so what more can you expect...

how many more times do i have to say NO
:lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 2:27 am 
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and I say no aswell


NO FUCKING WAY AM I GAY

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 4:53 pm 
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Little Godzuki wrote:
and I say no aswell


NO sodding WAY AM I GAY


was refering to the queer moderator not you :rolleyes:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 7:11 pm 
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ignoring the above comments...

great guide mate cheers. will refer back to it in the future im sure mate

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